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A Brief History of Buck Rock
Lookout
Located in the Sequoia National Forest, Buck Rock Lookout sits perched
atop a granite dome and offers a breathtaking view of the Great Western
Divide and other spectacular high mountain peaks of the Sierra Nevada
Mountains. Access to the top is via a series of stair flights
(consisting of 172 steps) suspended from the side of the rock. The
current lookout building was constructed in 1923 and is historically
significant as a representation of the earliest 4-A style live-in cabs
of which there are only three in existence in the world today. Prior to
the current building, an open platform was situated on the top of the
rock, which a patrol unit would climb onto to scan for smokes using only
binoculars, a compass, and a map. Spotting a smoke, he would quickly
descend, hop on his horse and chase down the fire. In 1914, a telephone
was installed and a phone line between Pinehurst and Buck Rock was
carried by mules and restrung at the beginning of each season. If you
look closely, you can see the old ceramic phone line connectors in the
trees below the lookout.
Originally, only long
slim tree trunks with boards nailed across for steps led to the top. A
series of ladders for climbing to the lookout came next, and finally in
1942, a stairway with 172 steps built by Frank Fowler and crew was added
to ease the climb. By the 1980‘s, electricity replaced gas and wood as a
source of energy, and today the lookout enjoys many of the modern
conveniences of most homes.
Why is the lookout
named Buck Rock? Legend has it that if you look at the rock from a
certain angle, you can see the profile of an Indian warrior. In times
gone by, we use to call male Indians “bucks” – thus the name. Native
Americans referred to the rock as “Finger Rock”.
The first fire watcher
was Buck McGee, who staffed the lookout for several years until Walker
Parker took over in 1927. Walker got hooked on lookout life and worked
on several other local lookouts throughout the 1930’s, including Stag
Dome, Cahoon Rock, Park Ridge, Bear Mountain, and Delilah. His wife
Viola (Kanawyer) and their children were often by his side. Leatrice
Evinger Dotters was the first lady lookout, and worked at Buck Rock from
D-Day (June 6th) through October 31st 1944 without
ever leaving for home. Helen Carter Allen was the lookout during the
1960’s – there was still a crank phone, a huge refrigerator and a double
bed, which left very little space for anything else. But Helen managed
to find just enough room for her companion – a beautiful, bur large
husky dog.
During the 1970’s Hume
Lake patrols and Engine 32 worked on improving the lookout building by
adding new shutters, siding, interior cabinets and map counters, and a
very convenient “dutch door”. Luther Gordon was the fire watcher during
much of the 1980’s. The marmots were quite active that year, and after
finding his vehicle’s electrical system munched on by the cute but
destructive creatures, Luther found a system to keep the marmots at
bay. A system that is legendary, but one we won’t go into here…
By the early 1990’s
the steps to the lookout were about worn out (and a bit dangerous to
climb) so Lakeshore Engine32 Captain Mark Sorenson and his crew set
about replacing the 172 steps and the catwalk with all new wood and
materials. Their craftsmanship is still very much appreciated by those
who currently staff and visit Buck Rock. The crew from Lakeshore Engine
32, continue the tradition of helping with maintenance at the lookout.
The lookout was closed for a period of about 10 years during the late
1980’s and throughout much of the 1990’s. In 1999, with the help of the
Buck Rock Foundation, Buck Rock was re-established as a primary location
for fire detection and has been staffed seven days a week ever since.
Well, except for those few days in 2002 when it was “condemned” due to a
deteriorating brace that was supporting a landing about 300 feet above
ground. Thanks to FS Engineer Sheldon Perkins, contractor John Porter
and the Hume Lake District’s pocket book, the landing was repaired –
just in time for our annual July 4th Open House Celebration!
Buck
Rock is currently staffed 7 days a week during fire season for the
detection of wildfires by Forest Service personnel and in partnership
with the Buck Rock Foundation who provides volunteers for relief.
Fire
Lookouts – A Legacy
From
the days of the old west, through the trials of World War 2, to our
current high-tech world, the story of the fire lookout is laced with
romance, heroics and tragedy. Once considered the most important tool
for the detection of wildfires, lookouts all but faded into obscurity.
This tale may have a happy ending, however, as enthusiasts nationwide
are rallying to protect this symbol of our conservation heritage.
The story begins in 1876 when the first fire lookout was
built by the Southern Pacific Railroad on Red Mountain near Donner
Summit to watch for train fires. In 1905, Chief Forester Gifford Pinchot
reorganized the forest reserves into the United States Forest Service.
Pinchot’s philosophy of "total exclusion" of fires made it necessary to
create an efficient organization of fire prevention and detection.
Within three years California constructed its first two permanent forest
fire lookout stations.
Initially, fire lookouts were crude camps temporarily set
up at "patrol points" where an observer might ride his horse to make
observations. Others were "crows nests" – platforms built atop the
highest trees. Fire watchers often doubled as fire fighters. Spotting
a smoke, he would hop on his horse or hike cross-country to quench the
fire. By 1914, construction standards were in place and soon thereafter,
both wooden "live-in" cabs and steel "observation only" towers were
being built. Two years later 81 permanent lookout structures stood on
key mountain tops.
Then came the 1930’s. America was in the throes of the
Great Depression. As President, Franklin D. Roosevelt authorized
government programs to put the unemployed back to work. Labor work
forces like the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC’s) were assigned to
various public works projects and building fire lookouts was one of
those. It was also the time when forestry departments nationwide were
determined to put a fire lookout on top of every mountain to protect
valuable timber resources. Constructing lookouts became a priority, and
with the help of the CCC’s, fire watch towers sprung up across the land.
Builders seemed undeterred by the precarious and remote locations of
many stations. In their heyday, over 8,000 lookouts dotted the
countryside, over 600 in California alone.
World War II sparked a new development in the history of
fire lookouts. In the spring of 1942, the Army Air Forces arm mobilized
the Aircraft Warning Service and utilized fire lookouts across the
country as enemy aircraft observation points. Two or more watchers
staffed each lookout 24 hours a day 365 days a year until the war ended.
America’s entry into the war brought about another change for fire
lookouts – women. In 1944, females joined the Forest Service work force
and began a long tradition of staffing fire towers.
The vigor was not to last. During the 1960’s and 1970’s
most fire lookouts and their dedicated watchers were phased out. With
increased emphasis on using airplanes and helicopters for fire detection
and suppression, a "let-burn" policy in many wilderness areas and a
growing number of visitors and residents in the forests, attitudes
towards staffing lookouts have changed. Fire lookouts across the country
face extinction. Today there are only a few hundred in operation. Once
considered a proud symbol of our nation’s conservation heritage, fire
lookouts are a fading legacy.
Looking To The
Future
While
it is true that many fire lookouts have been abandoned, vandalized and
even destroyed, there is a growing trend towards lookout revival. Groups
of enthusiasts, like members of the Buck Rock Foundation and the Forest
Fire Lookout Association, are organizing to share information and
enhance public awareness of fire lookouts. In many cases, lookout buffs
are involved in historical restoration projects along with Forest
Service recreation and heritage staffs. Once only utilized for the
detection of fire, lookouts are now considered functional for
non-traditional uses and are being restored to serve as museums,
interpretive centers, wildlife observation posts and vacation rentals.
Here on the Sequoia National Forest, Oak Flat Lookout (Greenhorn Ranger
District) is an example of the success of the lookout rental program.
Sequoia
National Forest Fire Lookouts
Of the approximately 40
forest fire lookouts that were located on key peaks throughout the Sequoia
National Forest, only 10 remain standing.
Baker Point –
Tule/Hot Springs Ranger
District – 7,753’ – T 24S R 32E Sec 10 – Abandoned
Bald Mountain –
Cannell Meadow Ranger
District – 9, 332’ – T 22S R 34E Sec 12 - Staffed
Breckenridge –
Greenhorn Ranger District – 7,548’ – T28S R 32E Sec 31 - Staffed
Buck Rock – Hume Lake
Ranger District – 8,502’ – T14S R 29E Sec 6 - Staffed
Delilah –
Hume Lake Ranger District –
5,156’ – T 13S R 26E Sec 11 – Emergency staffing only
Jordan Peak –
Tule River/Hot Springs
Ranger District – 9,115’ – T 20S R31E Sec 15 - Staffed
Mule Peak –
Tule River/Hot Springs
Ranger District – 8,142’ – T 22S R 31E Sec 15 - Staffed
Needles –
Tule River/Hot Springs
Ranger District – T21S R32E Sec 14 - Staffed
Oak Flat –
Greenhorn Ranger District –
4,919’ – T27S R30E Sec 30 – Recreation Rental
Tobias –
Tule River/Hot Springs
Ranger District – 8,284 – T24S R 32E Sec 7 - Staffed
For
information about visiting a lookout, contact the
Sequoia National Forest, 900
W. Grande, Porterville, CA 93257, 559-784-1500.
Visit
Your Local Fire Lookout!
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